Saturday, November 01, 2014

Two Reds From Victory View's Gerry Barnhart

 
There is no question that one of the most consistent and laudatory events of the entire TasteCamp 2012: Hudson Valley this past October 2014, was the discovery by more than a dozen wine writers of Victory View Vineyards and Gerry Barnhart's wines. Especially the Marechal Foch and the Marquette. These are not normally grapes nor varietal wines that turn wine writers' heads. In fact, if they turn their heads, it's most often in the other direction, while they are turning up their noses.
 
 
But there was no question, that Victory Views two reds turned more heads than just a few There was genuine agreement that Gerry's wines were not only exceptional versions of the varietal wines, but were in fact some of the best many had taste of them, and were the darlings of many of the entire weekend!
 
 
Marechal Foch is a French American hybrid. It makes lovely wines if well treated. Jerry's had a big, dark cherry bomb quality to it, with the cherry bursting up front. Yes, a tad bit of bramble, but lovely, lovely fruit, with good, but not overwhelming acidity, and a nice, finish, which showed great complexity and great balance. And there was little to none of the foxiness that one expects from lesser-made hybrids. This was not only a good showing for Marechal Foch, but good for any dry red wine. A very amazing achievement.

 
The Marquette, a University of Wisconsin cold climate grape, has found many fans, but few of them wine writers. Marquette is a cousin of Frontenac and grandson of Pinot noir. It is easily acknowledged that one of the best varietal Marquettes comes from Lincoln Peak Vineyards in Vermont. Again, skepticism was high, but reaction was swift and clear - the verdict was that the Marquette was equally astounding.
 
Big blueberry and dark raspberry came across with hints of cassis. Big fruit up front, with nice but not overwhelming acidity. A lovely, dry finish. Again, nice balance and nice complexity. A very good, almost Syrah-ish styled dry red wine.
 
The most amazing thing about both these wines was not just their lacking of foxiness, but rather that they were good, clean wines, that would have passed muster in any region. And that they were without flaw as well as had their own, good character.
 
A great showing from a relative new comer. Great promise of things to come. Congrats! 

 

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